Jeff’s Tech Tips for Bernina Owners

This is the first of many support articles that I will be making on Bernina Lady’s blog. The idea of these is to assist you to enjoy your sewing rather than getting annoyed at your machine. If you have any particular questions, please feel free to email Jeanne. I will not be going into minute detail but will be giving you the assistance that you require.

Today I will talk about needles. There are many different types, sizes and configurations. In spite of the fact I have been repairing machines for many years, I still find there are new ones being produced each year. When will it stop?

So which one do I use?

This can be broken down into a few general areas.
1. The point.
2. Size.
3. Specialty.

The point:
This is directly related to the type of fabric that you are working with. Cotton for example you would use a “Universal” or sharp point needle.

The knitted fabrics require a “Ball” point. Has nothing to do with your trusty Biro. However it has a rounded (ball) point that allows the point to separate the fibers rather that snagging and “pulling” your fabric. Helps to avoid skipping on these fabrics as well.
Leathers need a chisel point. These actually cut the hole as they pass through the material. This allows the needle and thread to withdraw from the material without excess “tenting”

Size:
Generally the heavier the material and thread the larger the needle. If in doubt go to a larger size. The lighter fabrics however only need a very small size #11. This reduces the final hole left in the seam.

As a general guide, a loose needle threaded on to a vertical length of thread should slide easily to the bottom.

Specialty:
Normally you will be guided by the point style, however there are other choices. Twin needles, spring. for example. The Spring needle is designed to assist with quilting, monogramming etc.

There you are folks. My first attempt. Next time I won’t be so long winded. I promise. If you have any suggestions that you would like addressed please ask. There are a few more points that I will make later on needles. In the mean time Happy Sewing.

From the work bench of Jeff, technical support for The Bernina Lady

How to Select Your Needle and Thread

Sew, now you have your very own brand new Bernina. There are sew many different threads on the market and you would like to use them all to embellish your quilts, your garments or your home décor. Your sewing machine will sew anything you want with almost any texture of thread. However, needles and threads go together like a sandwich and soup.

If you use the incorrect needle with your choice of thread neither you nor your brand new Bernina will be very happy. Follow these few pointers:

The simple self-test

1. Choose your thread for your project. Choose your needle. With your needle in your hand and your thread OFF the machine thread your needle onto the spool of thread. Hold a length of it (24” or so) tip the thread up and down. Does the needle slide freely up and down the length of thread? No? Well then, try a bigger sized needle. If your needle won’t slide freely up and down your thread outside your machine then it won’t work in your machine with that needle.
2. Needles will be the least expensive item you purchase for your projects or your sewing machines. Needles should be changed frequently. (We recommend every 6-8 hours of sewing). Do not sew with a damaged needle. The damaged needle can “ding” the hook of your machine causing costly repairs. Sometimes, you may get a damaged needle right out of your package. If you are not getting the stitch quality you desire from your Bernina (which we all know will be perfect), then change your needle.

You must work with the best needle for the thread and project that you are working on to get a perfect stitch. When selecting your needle and thread, be sure to consider the following:

Selecting Your Threads

In sewing threads and threads in general, are made out of “plys”. You may see a phrase on your spool of thread “tex” with a number. This also refers to plys or thickness. Sometimes you will have three ply thread and sometimes two. Generally, three ply is our sewing thread or thicker and two ply is bobbin weight or lingerie weight thread. As a rule of thumb, the higher the number, the thinner the thread. The lower the number, the thicker the thread.

Cotton all purpose thread that we use for sewing and piecing is a 50 weight, 3 ply – the spool of thread will say 50/3. Machine quilting thread is 40/3 or 35/3. Embroidery thread can be 40/3, 35/3 or 30/3. Bobbin thread is generally 60/2 or can even go as high as 150/2 for high-speed dense machine embroidery.

If you are doing decorative stitches that are generally dense (as in a satin stitch or for example the heart stitch), try using a 60/2 in your bobbin and whatever you like on top as you will have less problems with the thread “gobbing” up on you.

Selecting Your Needle

Needle sizes are just the opposite of threads. The lower the number the smaller the needle and the higher the number the bigger the needle. You want to try to choose the right size needle for the thread you are using without putting great holes in your work by using a big needle. There are however, some instances where some needles work better than others for the task you are doing.

If the needle and threads you are using are not working for you, go to a bigger size needle. Here are a few examples:

• 30 weight thread top and bottom: Embroidery size 90 is the first choice. Loosen your top tension slightly.
• 40 weight thread top and bottom: Quilting needle size 90 or embroidery needle size 90. Loosen your top tension slightly.
• Metallic Threads: Use with “sewers aid” if you are having problems. This is a thread lubricant available at most fabric/quilt stores. Use a metallic needle. In a pinch you can use a size 90 embroidery needle. Loosen your top tension quite a bit and slow down your speed especially when doing dense stitching. Try using a metallic thread through the needle and in the bobbin. Due to the stitch formation and the hook system of your Bernina your stitches will lock. Always start with a test sample first.
• Invisible Thread: Can be used in the top and bobbin at the same time. Take care to wind your bobbin slowly and only fill it half full. Loosen your top tension slightly. Use a good quality invisible thread. Quilting size 75 or Microtel 60/8-80/12 will work well here.
• Thick Threads too big for your needle: If using threads to thick for the needle there are a couple of artistic choices you may make here. You may “couch” your threads on top of your work. You may also choose to wind a bobbin with this thick thread. This is where it is best to have a second bobbin case as you will have to loosen your bobbin tension. You then turn your sewing upside down and sew from the wrong side. The bobbin thread will then be on top of your work. This is sometimes referred to as bobbin work.

Consider the Basics

1. Make sure your sewing machine needle size match your thread weights.
2. Make sure you do not sew with damaged needles.
3. Take the time to set your machine up before you sew on your good project.
4. It’s OK to work with two different threads on your machine (top and bottom).
5. It’s OK to loosen or tighten your top (needle) tension.
6. Take the time to sew a “test sample” of what you want to do.
7. Make any adjustments to your threads, needles, upper tension before you start sewing on your project.

By following these steps, you will be much happier with the results. Take a few minutes to clean your machine especially if you have been either machine quilting or using a particularly dusty thread. Oil your machine at least once a week if you do a lot of sewing.

Troubleshooting Tips:

If your thread is breaking it is usually an indication of:

• Wrong needle size for thread you are using.
• Wrong needle size for the project you are making.
• Wrong thread for your project.
• Incorrect needle tension for thread or stitch. Increase or decrease your upper (needle) tension.
• If you are suffering from “skipped” stitches change your needle. That is usually the problem. Remember, even if you have just put a new needle in – it could still have a “burr” on it and will cause you problems. So change the needle.