Understanding Maximum Stitch Widths

What is a stitch width? Simply put, it is the side-to-side width of your decorative and utility stitches. The wider the stitch width and the longer the stitch length, the bigger your stitches.

You have had a look at the new Limited Edition Aurora 450 and it tells you that it has a maximum stitch width of 9 mm. You’ve noticed that the Aurora 440 Quilter’s Edition has a maximum stitch width of 5.5 mm. Sew, what does that mean?

In the photo below you can visually tell the difference between a 9 mm stitch width and a 5.5 mm stitch width. The 9 mm stitches are significantly bigger. The 9 mm stitches are in the top half of the square. The 5.5 mm stitches are in the bottom half of the square.

Which machines give a 9 mm stitch width? The Artista 730, Artista 640 and the Aurora 450 Limited Edition all have a 9 mm stitch width. Older 9 mm stitch width machines would include the Artista 180 and the 1630.

Which machines give a 5.5 mm stitch width? The Activa machines (models 210-240), The Aurora 430 and 440 and the Artista 640.

The Bernette machines and the 1008 will give you different stitch widths.

For those of you with 9 mm stitch machines (especially those of us that are quilter’s), you will notice that if you put your walking foot on a 9 mm machine that your maximum stitch width is now 5.5 mm.

How can this happen? Take note of your pressure feet. If the foot has a number, e.g., 20C then this foot will give you 9 mm stitches. If you put a 20 foot, (no C) on your machine then you will receive 5.5 mm stitches. The little eyeballs on the 20C and the firmware of the machine work together to give you that maximum stitch width. A 5.5 mm machine will not give you a 9 mm stitch width ever. But a 9 mm machine can give you a 5.5 mm stitch width by using a non-coded foot (no C). Each machine comes packaged with the feet to use on your machine.

If you have a 9 mm machine and you wish to do decorative stitching or satin stitching, you will achieve the look you are wishing by using a gold latch bobbin case. This bobbin case has a little “pigtail” at the top of the bobbin case. Simply thread your thread through this “tail” and it will automatically tighten your bobbin tension. You want your satin stitch to look like a smooth ribbon. This extra bobbin case will allow you to achieve this result. Similarly, if you are embroidering you want a little more bobbin tension use the “pigtail” bobbin case as well.

If you have a 5.5 mm machine and you want to do decorative stitching or satin stitching there is a little hole in your bobbin case. Thread your thread through this little hole and it will give you a little more bobbin tension.

Hopefully this clears up the mystery of 9 mm stitches vs. 5.5 mm stitches. The choice is yours according to the machine that you have.

Why Do I Need Another Bobbin Case?

You have a brand new Bernina and now you want to experiment with all the fun textures of threads and all the different threads. You have already determined that your new thread is already too thick for the needle.

You will want to have another bobbin case to use for your different weight threads.
As a tip: Do not adjust your bobbin tension that you sew with unless you are comfortable with it. Save this bobbin for regular sewing.

Use your second bobbin case and use that with your new threads.  Adjust your bobbin tension as much you would like to get that perfect stitch.

1. Turn the little screw to the left to loosen your bobbin tension.
2. Turn the little screw to the right to tighten your bobbin tension.

A black latch bobbin case is available for your Bernina.  Please contact Bernina Lady.

The black latch on this bobbin case easily identifies to you the difference between your regular sewing bobbin case and your creative bobbin case. By having two bobbin cases and being able to adjust the tension on only one of them eliminates possible tension problems with your regular sewing bobbin case.

How to Select Your Needle and Thread

Sew, now you have your very own brand new Bernina. There are sew many different threads on the market and you would like to use them all to embellish your quilts, your garments or your home décor. Your sewing machine will sew anything you want with almost any texture of thread. However, needles and threads go together like a sandwich and soup.

If you use the incorrect needle with your choice of thread neither you nor your brand new Bernina will be very happy. Follow these few pointers:

The simple self-test

1. Choose your thread for your project. Choose your needle. With your needle in your hand and your thread OFF the machine thread your needle onto the spool of thread. Hold a length of it (24” or so) tip the thread up and down. Does the needle slide freely up and down the length of thread? No? Well then, try a bigger sized needle. If your needle won’t slide freely up and down your thread outside your machine then it won’t work in your machine with that needle.
2. Needles will be the least expensive item you purchase for your projects or your sewing machines. Needles should be changed frequently. (We recommend every 6-8 hours of sewing). Do not sew with a damaged needle. The damaged needle can “ding” the hook of your machine causing costly repairs. Sometimes, you may get a damaged needle right out of your package. If you are not getting the stitch quality you desire from your Bernina (which we all know will be perfect), then change your needle.

You must work with the best needle for the thread and project that you are working on to get a perfect stitch. When selecting your needle and thread, be sure to consider the following:

Selecting Your Threads

In sewing threads and threads in general, are made out of “plys”. You may see a phrase on your spool of thread “tex” with a number. This also refers to plys or thickness. Sometimes you will have three ply thread and sometimes two. Generally, three ply is our sewing thread or thicker and two ply is bobbin weight or lingerie weight thread. As a rule of thumb, the higher the number, the thinner the thread. The lower the number, the thicker the thread.

Cotton all purpose thread that we use for sewing and piecing is a 50 weight, 3 ply – the spool of thread will say 50/3. Machine quilting thread is 40/3 or 35/3. Embroidery thread can be 40/3, 35/3 or 30/3. Bobbin thread is generally 60/2 or can even go as high as 150/2 for high-speed dense machine embroidery.

If you are doing decorative stitches that are generally dense (as in a satin stitch or for example the heart stitch), try using a 60/2 in your bobbin and whatever you like on top as you will have less problems with the thread “gobbing” up on you.

Selecting Your Needle

Needle sizes are just the opposite of threads. The lower the number the smaller the needle and the higher the number the bigger the needle. You want to try to choose the right size needle for the thread you are using without putting great holes in your work by using a big needle. There are however, some instances where some needles work better than others for the task you are doing.

If the needle and threads you are using are not working for you, go to a bigger size needle. Here are a few examples:

• 30 weight thread top and bottom: Embroidery size 90 is the first choice. Loosen your top tension slightly.
• 40 weight thread top and bottom: Quilting needle size 90 or embroidery needle size 90. Loosen your top tension slightly.
• Metallic Threads: Use with “sewers aid” if you are having problems. This is a thread lubricant available at most fabric/quilt stores. Use a metallic needle. In a pinch you can use a size 90 embroidery needle. Loosen your top tension quite a bit and slow down your speed especially when doing dense stitching. Try using a metallic thread through the needle and in the bobbin. Due to the stitch formation and the hook system of your Bernina your stitches will lock. Always start with a test sample first.
• Invisible Thread: Can be used in the top and bobbin at the same time. Take care to wind your bobbin slowly and only fill it half full. Loosen your top tension slightly. Use a good quality invisible thread. Quilting size 75 or Microtel 60/8-80/12 will work well here.
• Thick Threads too big for your needle: If using threads to thick for the needle there are a couple of artistic choices you may make here. You may “couch” your threads on top of your work. You may also choose to wind a bobbin with this thick thread. This is where it is best to have a second bobbin case as you will have to loosen your bobbin tension. You then turn your sewing upside down and sew from the wrong side. The bobbin thread will then be on top of your work. This is sometimes referred to as bobbin work.

Consider the Basics

1. Make sure your sewing machine needle size match your thread weights.
2. Make sure you do not sew with damaged needles.
3. Take the time to set your machine up before you sew on your good project.
4. It’s OK to work with two different threads on your machine (top and bottom).
5. It’s OK to loosen or tighten your top (needle) tension.
6. Take the time to sew a “test sample” of what you want to do.
7. Make any adjustments to your threads, needles, upper tension before you start sewing on your project.

By following these steps, you will be much happier with the results. Take a few minutes to clean your machine especially if you have been either machine quilting or using a particularly dusty thread. Oil your machine at least once a week if you do a lot of sewing.

Troubleshooting Tips:

If your thread is breaking it is usually an indication of:

• Wrong needle size for thread you are using.
• Wrong needle size for the project you are making.
• Wrong thread for your project.
• Incorrect needle tension for thread or stitch. Increase or decrease your upper (needle) tension.
• If you are suffering from “skipped” stitches change your needle. That is usually the problem. Remember, even if you have just put a new needle in – it could still have a “burr” on it and will cause you problems. So change the needle.